Pura Vida

In Costa Rica people often say – “Pura Vida!” to say hello, goodbye, in response to difficult situation or to answer the question How are you?

Pura Vida means “pure life,” and expresses a way of life that is simple, happy, and content. A phrase that is, by all means, cultural, and reflects the optimistic nature that we encounter again and again while living here.

New Year’s Day we were invited to a waterfall hike with a dear friend and her family. We drove 45 minutes away, towards Volcano Poas, through windy roads and ended up at a private cow farm. After a friendly greeting by the farmer caretaker in muddy knee high rain boots, our group was told which pasture to enter and how to cross a bumpy dirt road. Our car couldn’t make it through so the convoy parked along the way and began our hike down to the waterfall by foot on a less familiar path. Our friend’s husband had to use an old-fashioned machete to cut back the trees and shrubbery that had overgrown during the rainy season.

Needless to say, the waterfall was beautiful. Upon returning to our cars, we were invited to continue the fun with a picnic. Our friends had prepared some rice, chicken and salad for us all. After some pondering on the best place to sit we settled under the shade of a tree with view looking down on San Jose city and enjoyed a rewarding meal. And then, we just sat there. We enjoyed the chilly breeze that we now know accompanies the high altitude of a volcano, and talked. And laughed.

We were content, completely carefree. No looking at phones or watches or concern of when to be home – instead we enjoyed the beauty set before us among good company sometimes just in silence.

After some time, I overheard the two sisters talking about coffee and how maybe it’s a good time to have some. Still maintaining much of my North American culture, I assumed this meant a drive down the volcano to find a coffee shop where we could pick up a coffee “to go.”

After all, I am used to hikes where you arrive at the final destination, sit for a short time, begin the trek back, and drive home, usually exhausted. Instead, my friend took out a cute cannister and served us all some warm coffee with powdered milk if we pleased. And again, there was no need to hurry or stress about what’s next. The little warm mugs invited us to sit, sip and just be.

Some cows walked by providing Phoebe with joy and afterwards she went to pick some wild berries nearby with our friends. Emma, fussy as usual, demanded me to bundle her up and rock her to sleep as my friend shared her thoughts on praying. Driving back towards home Michael and I noticed multiple families picnicking in open fields along the roadside. How lovely, we commented, it must be a tradition here. What a way to start the year. We ended our day of hiking refreshed and full of life – Pura Vida!

It’s now been nearly two weeks since January 1st.  Life in Costa Rica isn’t always Pura Vida, yet the peace and calm of that day I hold dear in my heart. Our friends helped us better understand their culture through the simple act of slowing down.  I thought I knew how to be present – because I often schedule times of rest in my day. Yet, the type of presence that we shared was one without an agenda, and was as simple as enjoying the day for the sake of life itself. It was pure. It was simply beautiful

Sometimes I wonder if the more money or ‘things’ we have in this world, the more worries and problems we have. My husband’s favorite poem by Ezra Pound titled “Salutation” makes a bit more sense to me now.

 Salutation by Ezra Pound (1913)

O generation of the thoroughly smug
and thoroughly uncomfortable,
I have seen fishermen picnicking in the sun,
I have seen them with untidy families,
I have seen their smiles full of teeth
and heard ungainly laughter.
And I am happier than you are,
And they were happier than I am;
And the fish swim in the lake
and do not even own clothing.

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